Confederate Impression

Headgear: A gray forage cap or kepi of correct pattern made of jeans cloth is highly recommended. Caps may have appropriate branch of service trim. OR a well constructed slouch hat in gray, brown or black with ribbon and binding. Avoid Federal hat cords and “stampede straps,” or hillbilly type hats with plumes, animal tails, etc. Hat brass should, for most time periods, be at an absolute minimum. An occasional Federal blue forage cap is fine.

Jackets/Coats: A 7-9 button gray shell jacket made of jeans, cassimere, or satinette is highly recommended. The so-called Richmond Depot pattern made by Ben Tart and other quality tailors is a perfect choice. Hand-worked buttonholes are much preferred. These jackets serve as a very good “universal” coat since they saw service from 1862-1865. By adding a little black trim on collar and shoulder straps they can be modified to an 1861 early-war Commutation appearance. Other jackets of authentic documented patterns and construction are also acceptable, including North Carolina manufactured patterns and civilian coats. The plain look is the best look.

Buttons: Confederate issue block “I” infantry buttons or various types of Federal eagle buttons are the best, but NC state seal patterns, civilian, wooden, or other CS styles are also fine. In short, as long as it fits our period, almost anything goes (except CSA buttons which are distinctly late-war).

Trousers: Lots of leeway here with grey, brown, or various shades of blue

Suspenders: Any type of civilian suspenders with japanned metal, brass, or tin buckles is appropriate. Canvas or ticking “poor boy” types are also fine.

Footwear: You must wear period shoes. These can be boots, US or CS issue military brogans, or civilian patterns in black or brown. If you take care of your footwear and keep ‘em blackened and greased, they will give you many years of good service.

Shirts: Everybody wants to go cheap on their shirt when, in fact, it’s the most frequently worn item next to your trousers. Polyester blends and other modern alternatives don’t cut it. Spend a few bucks; get a good, high quality authentic shirt. Shirts should be constructed from a documented pattern made of natural materials, i.e. cotton, linen, flannel or wool. A woolen overshirt or “battleshirt” is also fine and can be worn in lieu of a jacket for many events. Contrary to conventional wisdom, shirts of this type saw use throughout the war, particularly in the western CS armies.

Underwear: Period patterns are recommended for warmth, safety, and comfort reasons but, honestly, no one will be checking!

Belts: A plain civilian pattern belt with a roller buckle is a good choice, as are various Confederate manufactured frame buckles including the “wishbone” or Georgia frame styles. Captured Federal belts will also work but the upside-down “US” buckle thing is overdone. Also, oval “CS” buckles were actually quite rare and are way over-represented in the field; “CS” cartridge box plates were virtually non-existent. The same goes with oval “NC” and most other state patterns since they were scarce, indeed.

Accouterments: Tin canteens of the CS drum or Federal smoothside pattern are best. Avoid wooden canteens since most of the types sutlers sell bear no resemblance to the real thing. Federal” bullseye” pattern canteens will work but really did not see service until 1863. Haversacks should be documented Federal painted varieties or CS white cotton types. Cups should be tin, not speckleware or enamelware.

Cartridge/Cap Boxes: A plain black Federal issue cartridge box of either the 1857 or 1861 pattern is the best all around box since it can be easily adapted to both US and CS impressions. If worn, a “US” box plate can easily be removed for CS portrayal or left as is. Same with your Percussion cap pouch also of same patterns of either shield front or common style. A black Federal 2-rivet pattern bayonet scabbard likewise will be appropriate for most any event.

Shoulder Arms: Although two banded muskets were frequently used during the war, we require three banded muskets in order to comply with the almost universal safety requirements typical at events and National Park Service programs we take part in. While the M1853 Enfield is a good first choice, Springfields are likewise fine. Smoothbore muskets (M1816 Conversions, M1842 patterns) are also appropriate for early war events but they are heavy on a long march. They weren’t called “pumpkin slingers” for nothing! The removal of all anachronistic markings and general “defarbing” of your weapon does much to enhance your overall impression.

Blankets: Made of wool of documented patterns including “NC” blankets, gray or brown Federal types with or without “US” stitching, or civilian styles. Homespun bedding including quilts and floor cloths are also fine.

Other items: Avoid the penchant to wear “bling-blings” or other non-military items on your uniforms. These include Irish harps, fraternal order badges, coon tails and other superfluous adornments on caps or uniforms, or anything else where you are trying to make a statement. It should go without saying that modern glasses or sunglasses are totally inappropriate when portraying a soldier of the 1860s. The same goes for cigar or cigarette smoking within the ranks.